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MRS. M. E. DAVIS' 



Dress Chart 



SELF-INSTRUCTOR. 



ST. JOSEPH, MO. 

St. Joseph Steam Printing Company. 

i88a. 



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MRS. M. E. DAVIS' 

Dress Chart and Self- Instructor. 



DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING THE MEASURES. 

Have two bands I inch wide and from I to 1% yards long. Pin 
one tightly around the waist, and the other loosely around the hips, over 
the most prominent part. 

First Measure or Key — Place the tape measure at the center of the 
back of the neck. Hold it in place with one hand, and with the other 
hand pass the tape over the shoulder, towards the front, around under 
the arm (with the arm raised), back up to the center of neck again, tight. 
Write down the number of inches. 

Second or Length of Back. — Place the tape measure again at the 
back of the neck ; take the tape down the back to the lower edge of 
band. Write down the number. 

Third or Bust Measure. — Take the tape around the bust high over 
the shoulder-blades, close under the arm, and over the most prominent 
part of the bust, loose or tight, as required. Write down the number. 

Fourth or Waist Measure. — Take the tape around the waist over the 
band, tight. Write down the number. 

Fifth or Front ana Dart Measure. — Place the tape at back of neck 
again; take the tape over the shoulder, close to the side of the neck, 
down to the lower edge of waist band in front. Write down the 
number. 

Before removing the tape, notice what number on the tape rests 
against the bust just below the most prominent point. Write down the 
number. 

Sixth or Hip Measure. — Take the tape around the hips, over the 
hip band, loose. Write down the number. 

Seventh or Spring Measure. — Place the tape at lower edge of waist 
band ; take it down to the lower edge of hip band, over the hip. Write 
down the number. 

Eighth or Under Arm Measure. — Place the tape close under the 
arm; take it down to the lower edge of the waist band Write down the 
number. 



2 MRS. M, E. DA VIS' DRESS CHART AND SELF-INSTRUCTOR. 

Ninth or Arm Measure. — Take the tape around the arm over the 
shoulder, not too tight. Write down the number. 

Tenth or Sleeve Measure. — Place the tope at the armpit, and with 
the arm straight, place the tape down to the wrist, or as short as is 
required. Write down the number. 

Eleventh or Hand Measure. — Measure around the hand with the 
fist doubled, or as large as is required. Write down the number. 

Twelfth or Skirt Measure. — Place the tape at the lower edge of waist 
band, in front; take the tape down to the toe of the shoe, or shorter, as 
is required. Write down the number. 

MEASUREMENTS. 

I •-! .'! i :. 

Key, 25 ; Back, 16 ; Bust, 36 ; Waist. 24 ; Dart and Front, 13^-19 ; 

_ e 7 8 :» in ii 

Spring, 5; Hip, 40; Under Arm, 8 ; Arm, 16; Sleeve, 17; Hand, 10: 

12 
Skirt, 40. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAUGHTING AND CUTTING. 

LESSON FIRST. 

First draw a straight line full length of the paper, leaving a margin 
of three fourths of an inch for a seam. This line is the center line. Take 
the back of the chart, lay it on the paper straight, so that this line can 
be seen through all the holes on center line on chart. Commence to 
draught at A, using Key 25; dot through all the holes around to D; 
dot at B. Now lay aside the chart and take the straight rule; lay the 
long end on center line, with the No. 16 on rule touching on dot A, 
and dot at lower end for length of back. Now take the tape and meas- 
ure the distance between B and C on the back of the chart, using 
the Key 25 ; the distance is 4^4 inches. Now dot by the short end of 
rule the corresponding number of inches (which is 4^ inches). This 
dot is C. Draw a line across from B to C by the rule, just as it lies for 
waist line. Notice how far below B this line is, and keep it in mind, as 
this measure is used on the front. The distance is 2% inches. Now 
draw straight lines from C to D, and a curved line from D, E and F. 
Draw a straight line from F to I, and from I to A. This is for a plain 
back, and is ready to cut out. Always allow ^ inch seams, except at 
the neck and arms-eye ; these cut on the line. 

LESSON SECOND. 

HOW TO DRAUGHT THE FRONT. 

Draw a line 1 inch from the edge of the paper. This is for the hem. 
Lay the front of the chart on the paper so that the line can be seen 



MRS. M. E. DA VIS' DRESS CHART AND SELF-INSTRUCTOR. 3 

through the holes on front lines on chart. Commence at the neck and 
dot through the holes, using the Key 25 ; dot around to C. Now, to get 
the bust, which is 36 inches, take the tape and divide the bust measure in 
half, which is 18; take back of chart and lay the figure 18 on center 
line, opposite D ; take the tape across to dot D, using the Key 25 ; notice 
what figures of the tape rest at dot D, which is 10 T£ inches ; now dot on 
front in bust measurement the corresponding number, which is 10^ 
inches. Now, to get the waist, which is 24 inches, take the tape ana 
divide the waist measure in half, which is 12 inches; lay the figure 12 
of tape on B, at back of chart; carry the tape to C, using the Key 25. 
Notice what figure of the tape rests at dot C, which is 73^ inches. Now 
dot in waist measurements on front the corresponding number, which is 
7% inches. Lay the chart aside and bring the two dots — the bust dot 
and the waist dot — directly opposite the two key dots, and dot again. 
Now add down the paper from this last waist dot the same distance that 
was added below B on back, for waist line, which is 2^ inches; make a 
dot: this is C on front. Draw a line from C to D. Now, to get the 
height of darts and front, take the tape and measure on back the distance 
between A and 1, which is I^f inches ; lay the figure I % on I on front, 
carry the tape down on front line, letting the figure ot front measure, 
which is 19, re^t on front line; make a dot for dot 2. Before removing 
the tape, dot for heights of darts at figure 13%. Now draw a waist line 
from dot 2 to C ; also a horizontal line for heights of darts There are 
3 inches to be taken up in darts; put this into two darts of \]/ 2 inches 
each. Lay the long side of the straight rule on the frontline, letting 
the short end of rule run across the paper at waist line. Dot at figure 2 on 
rule: this is for space. Dot at 3^2 for dart ; at 4^ for space between 
dart; at 6 for dart. Slip the rule up to height of dart line and dot the 
same; now draw straight lines lengthwise from each dot, the same as is 
show in diagram; dot on height of dart line between the darts space. 
Take the spring rule ; let the point touch these dots ; let the curved side 
touch the straight lines about one half the distance between the waist 
line and heights of dart lines ; rule each side the same, as is shown in 
the diagram, for the under arm length measure, from waist line up under 
the arms-eye, and make a dot at S inches ; draw line by straight rule. At 
the shoulder, draw a curved line from F around to D, touching under 
arm dot. Do not come too close to dot 4, or the arms-eye will be too 
large. Draw a line in the neck touching all the dots. Cut out the same 
as back. 

LESSON THIRD. 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAUGHTING IN THE CHILDREN'S SIZES. 

[The Bust Measure in the Child Measurement is the Key.] 

MEASUREMENTS. 

Bust, 25; Back, i?.}i; Waist, 23 ; Spring, 4 ; Hip, 28 ; Arm, 12^/j 
Hand, 7 ; Skirt, from back of neck to hem, 26. 

How to draught the Back : First draw a line as before; lay the back 
of chart on paper, letting the line show through holes in lap line on 



4 MRS. M. E. DA 1 75' DRESS CHART AND SELF-INSTRUCTOR . 

chart. Commence at A, using the Bust No. 25; dot through the holes, 
following the line around to D; dot at center lap dot . Lay aside the 
chart, and draw lines from each dot ; lay the straight rule on the lap line, 
the same as before, letting the No. 12)4, on rule touch at A ; dot at lower 
end of rule for length of back; draw a line across by short end of rule, 
for waist line, the same distance it is from center lap dot to C on chart, 
which is 5 inches, and dot; draw a line from C to D ; this is now ready 
to cut out This is for a loose waist. 

To draught the Front: Lay the front chart on the paper, letting the 
edge of paper come to second line ; dot through all the holes around to 
C, using the Bust Number, which is 25; dot at No. 2 on second line; lay 
aside the chart; now dot below No. 2 the same distance that is added 
below center lap dot on back, which is i^f inches; measure the distance 
between C and D on back paper, which is 73/ inches; measure on front 
from D down past C the same distance, and dot for C ; now draw a line 
from this C to front dot; draw lines touching all the dots. Cut out the 
same as before. This is for a loose waist. 



LESSON FOURTH. 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAUGHTING BASQUE, POLONAISE AND PRINCESS DRESSES 
IN LADIES' SIZES. 

Commence the same as for plain waist ; dot around to E. In draw- 
ing the waist line at back, divide the distance between B and C in half, 
the distance being 4^ ; 'tis well enought to dot at figure 2 on rule, leav- 
ing the extra 2^" for the side form. When this measure is even inches, 
always divide it in half. Make a dot at figure 2 : this is G. Now take 
the spring rule; lay the point at E; let the curved side touch at G, and 
diaw a line from E to G; now measure down on center line from length 
of waist line just twice the distance that it is from B to C, which is 8j^ 
inches ; make a dot; this dot is H. Now measure across the paper from 
H just the distance that it is from B to C, less *-£ inch, which is 3^ inches ; 
make a dot; this dot is I. Now take the straight iule; let one end 
touch at dot G and the other at I ; draw a line; extend the line as far 
down as is required. Now lay the chart back on the paper, straight; dot 
at E, D and B . Lay aside the chart. Lay the straight rule at B dot on 
paper, letting the 2% inches on rule touch at the B dot, with the short 
end extending across the paper ; now dot at figure 2 on rule for G; now 
dot at figure 4^ on rule for C ; draw a line from C to G by rule ; draw a 
line from C to D ; lay the curved side of the spring rule at E and G, ihe 
same as before ; draw a line from E to G, and below G just twice the dis- 
tance that it is from B to C, which is S}/£; make a dot; this dot is J. 
Now measure across the paper from J jusi the distance that it is from B 
to C, whichis 4^ inches; make a dot; this dot is K. If much fullness 
is required here for a bustle, add the extra half inch that was dropped 
between H and I, which will make J and K 4^ inches apart instead of 
4^ inches. Draw a line from C to K. For a Basque, cut it the desired 
length; for a Polanaise, use the skirt measure from the waist line down, 



MRS. M. E. DA VIS' DRESS CHART AND SELF-INSTRUCTOR. : 5 

and the same for a Princess If the Polonaise should be cut all in one 
piece, allow about 7 inches for a plait in the back ; that is, draw the cen- 
ter line 7 inches from the edge of the paper, in draughting the side from 
dot just opposite B on paper, about 2 inches; then lay Charts B on this 
dot, and draught the same; this will give a dart between back and side 
form. The plait in the back can be extended as low as is required. If 
a plait is required between the back and side form, make the back plait 
less, and dot the opposite B, about 6 inches from B; then rule straight 
across, about from 4 to 6 inches below the waist line; cut out to this 
line. Shape the bottom as is required. For a Princess Dress, use the 
skirt measure from the waist line down, using the same length on all the 
seams for a walking length ; for a traveling skirt allow one half inch 
more to each seam, or more, as is required. 



LESSON FIFTH. 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAUGHTING BASQUES, POLONAISE AND PRINCESS 
DRESSES IN LADIES' SIZES — CONTINUED. 

Draught the front the same as for a plain waist. To get the under 
arm dart, measure the distance between the back dart line and dot C, 
which is 4^ inches ; divide this in half, and make a dot on waist line; 
this dot is 3 ; the distance from dot 3 to dot C is 2^§ inches. Now 
measure toward the front from D the same, 2^ inches, and make a dot. 
Now draw a line from this dot to dot 3 : this is line 5. Now take the 
spiingrule; lay it straight up and down on the paper, with the spring 
dot directly over dot 3. Now dot for spring measure on spring rule at 
No. 5; this is dot 8. Slip the rule back, letting the edge of rule touch 
at dot 3 and 8 ; draw a line by the spring side ; take the straight rule, 
let it touch at dot 8, and draw a straight line from dot 8 up to the arms- 
eye ; this is line 6. Measure up on this line from dot 8 just 5 inches (the 
same distance it is from 3 to 8); make a dot; this is dot 7. Measure 
back from dot 7 across the paper 2}^ inches, or one half the distance that 
it was first between back dart line and C, which was 2^ inches. Make 
a dot; this is C. Now draw a straight line up from C just the length 
that it is from C to D on back, which is 9^ inches; make a dot ; this is 
D. Now lay the spring rule with spring dot against dot C, with the 
straight side with line running from C to D. Draw a line by a spring side ; 
this is line K. Now measure up on lines 5 and 6, from dot 3 and 7, 
using the under arm measure, which is 8 ; make dot. Now draw lines 
from D to these dots, and from F around to line 5, but not too close to 
dot 4, or the arms-eye will be too large. The space between lines 5 and 
6 must always be cut out, or it will not come together properly ; but must 
allow seams. Extend the dart lines 10 inches below the waist line; 
make a dot at lower end in center of dart space. Rule straight lines 
from each of these dots to the point where the waist lines cross the darts 
line, as is shown in diagram. For a Basque, cut across the desired 
length. For Polonaise and Princess, cut the required length, measuring 



6 MRS. M. E. DA VIS' DRESS CHART AND SELF INSTRUCTOR. 

from the waist line down, using the skirt measure. For a walking length 
Princess, measure from waist line, using the skirt measure; also from C 
down, following the spring or K line. If a longer skirt is required, allow 
one half to one inch longer at side than at front. 

LESSON SIXTH. 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAUGHTING BASQUES, POLONAISE AND GABRIELLE 
DRESSES IN CHILDREN'S SIZES. 

Draught the same as before, except in dividing the back between B 
and C. Use the waist measure ; that is, measure the distance from cen- 
ter lap dot to C, using the waist measure 23 instead of 25, as in directions 
for loose waist. Then follow the same directions as in ladies' sizes. 
Draught the front the same as before. To get the under arm dart, dot 
back from D toward dot 4, about two-thirds the distance, or about 1 inch. 
Draw a straight line down from this dot to waist line for line 5. Make 
dot 3. Use tne spring rule the same as before, using the spring measure 
4, and dot for 8 ; rule line 6 and dot on line 6 from dot 8 up 4 inches 
for dot 7. Now notice how far the chart dot C is from line 5, which is 
1% inches. Now add across from dot 7 the I }{ inches, and dot for C; 
dot I inch from line 6 at top. Draw a line ; this line will not be straight 
on the paper, as in ladies' sizes. Rule by spring rule from C the same 
as in ladies' sizes. If flie garment is to be fitted tight, measure on chart 
the distance between bust and waist figures in waist row — that is, between 
25 and 23 — which is three-fourths of an inch ; this amount is to be taken 
up in one dart. In larger sizes the dart will be larger, and can be divided 
in two darts. To get the length of skirt, measure from back of neck 
down to bottom ; measure the front by the back from the waist down. 
To cut coats, cut the same as for plain waist, except to use the waist 
number at back the same as for tight waist, and shape it in front like it is 
on chart. 

LESSON SEVENTH. 

DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE SLEEVE PIECE. 

Double the paper. Lay the chart straight on the paper, with the top 
towards the right hand ; commence to dot at Q, using the arm measure 1 6 . 
Dot in all the corresponding numbers, both for the upper and under side 
of the sleeve. Now lay aside the chart and take the tape and measure 
straight down from Q, using the sleeve measure, which is 17 ; make a dot; 
this dot will come below the R dot. Measure to see how much below 
the R dot this length of sleeve dot is. (It is 3 inches.) Now measure 
the same distance straight down on the paper from S, and make a dot. 
Draw a line from these two dots. Now divide the hand measure, which 
is 10 inches, in half, which is 5 inches. Measure on this line, from length 
of sleeve dot, the 5 inches, and make a dot. Now draw lines touching 
all the dots : one line for the upper part of sleeve; the other for the 
under. Do not draw straight up from Q, but one-fourth of an inch inside, 



MjRS. M. E. DAVIS' DRESS CHART AND SELF-INSTRUCTOR. 7 

opposite Q; then run up over top, touching all the dots, as shown in 
diagram. Run both lines into one dot at the hand. R and S will be 
left out, as they are of no further use but to measure from. Cut out both 
pieces ; then take the top piece and cut on the inside line for the under 
half of sleeve. While the under piece is the upper half, cut the other 
sleeve by this. 

DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE SKIRT PIECE. 

Double a width of cloth, with the double edge toward the operator. 
Lay the chart on the cloth straight, with L resting on the double edge. 
Use the hip measure, 40 ; dot at L, M and N. Lay aside the chart and 
draw a line from L to M. Take the straight rule ; let it touch at dots M 
and N. Draw a line down full length of skirt measure, which is 40; 
make a dot; measure down from L the same length, 40, and dot; cut 
across the bottom, touching each dot; cut on the lines. This is the front 
width. Now cut a straight width just the length of front measure, which 
is 40, and just the width of front width at the bottom; this is the back. 
To get the side widths, lay the chart on a single piece of cloth; dot at M, 
NN, O and P, using the hip measure, 40. Remove the chart and draw 
straight line from each dot. Measure down from dot O, using the skirt 
measure, which is 40, and dot. Draw a line from M and NN full length 
of skirt measure, and dot. Cut out on line. The straight side goes next 
to the front width. This is for a walking skirt. If a longer skirt is 
required, allow one half inch on each seam on front and side widths, 
gradually sloping it down from about the center of side widths toward 
the back, making the back width as much longer than the front as is 
required. In cutting a trailing skirt, make the side width wider; this 
can be done by curving the line from NN out a little, and as long as is 
required. 

DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING AND BASTING. 

Take 2 yards of light colored corset jeans, or some soft lining. Lay 
the ends together; then cut the lining out crossways of the lining. Trace 
all the seams with a double tracing wheel, which will allow about -^ -inch 
seams; then it is ready for the outside. Betore basting, take the tape 
line and measure the bust, waist and hip, to test it. Ii it measures all 
right, cut it out. In testing the hip, observe on spring rule the test line ; 
it will tell exactly how many inches has been added to the front. In 
basting up a dress, always join it together at the waist line first; be care- 
ful that it is perfectly straight, then baste both ways. At dot 4, at front 
of arms-eye in most cases, take up a small dart in the lining only, then 
diaw the goods down to fit. In basting the shoulder, always commence 
at the neck. In setting a sleeve, let the inside seam at Q be fastened at 
the point where the threads of the lining running lengthwise and those 
running crosswise come together. Then baste in the sleeve over the top 
as full as can be, without being gathered. If it is a little large, lay a plait 
underneath To finish the seams inside, trim off smooth; then lay one 
edge against three, with the raw edge turned in, and overcast close. 
Extend the corset forms, or the piece for the hooks and eyes, from the 



8 MRS. M. E. DA VIS'. DRESS CHART AND SELF-INSTRUCTOR., 

lop of the front dart, from 4 to 6 inches below the waist line, and just one 
half inch from the front edge of the dress. In cutting for very larye. 
people, the first space between the front edge and first dart should be 
from 2 to 2,Vz inches, so that the front will be more equally divided. This 
must depend upon the judgment of the operator. A great many persons 
are one-sided ; that is, one hip will be higher than the other. In such 
cases the waist line on this side should be raised the desired length, and 
the seams over the hip let out to fit. In cutting for very stout, short- 
waisted ladies, in running the waist line across proper, it will make the 
dress too short under the arm in such cases ; extend the waist down a"s 
long as is required, then cut it off at the neck the proper length from A 
and I, but running it straight across to F and not changing F. Of course 
these directions are for imperfect forms. In cutting for very small ladies, 
the bust measuse should be taken tighter than for a medium size. Then 
in draughting the waist measure on front, drop one half inch, which will 
leave but 2^ inches for darts, which is quite sufficient when the front 
measure is quite short, which is often the case with elderly ladies. After 
the lining is all ruled off proper, dot 3 should be raised almost opposite 
the front dot, and rule across. Raise dot 7 opposite 3 ; this will make 
the waist line between dot 7 and dot C a little diagonal. In cutting loose 
waists, lay the back of the chart on the cloth, double, with the edge of 
cloth at A, and at B about 2 inches back from the edge of cloth; this 
will give the desired fullness in the back. Draught the front just the 
same as for any waist, and the fullness that is taken up in darts in any 
waist is sufficient for gathers. To cut a plaited waist, first plait it; then 
press it and cut out or lay on a plain lining and cut out by it. To cut 
children's aprons and loose garments, cut the same as for plain loose 
waist. Follow these directions in all measures. 

MRS. M. E. DAVIS, 

White Cloud, Doniphan County, Kansas. 



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